Malte Brun Climb

Rising dramatically above the Tasman Glacier, Malte Brun is one of the great alpine peaks of Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park – a striking pyramid of rock and ice that commands both respect and admiration.

Malte Brun climb via the Bonney Ridge is a true New Zealand classic, weaving together steep scrambling, sustained ridge climbing, and breathtaking exposure in one of the most spectacular settings in the Southern Alps. From the first step onto the ridge, the ascent feels wild and committing, with sweeping views across the Tasman Valley, the bonney Glacier, and the towering faces of Aoraki itself.

The route unfolds in stages: long sections of sustained rock climbing on solid alpine greywacke, mixed with sharp arêtes and knife-edge traverses that test both composure and movement efficiency. Every pitch feels purposeful, offering a blend of technical challenge and exhilarating exposure. Higher up, the ridge narrows and steepens, with short cruxes demanding focus before easing into the final summit slopes.

Standing on the summit of Malte Brun, at 3,199 metres, is an unforgettable moment: the panorama is immense, stretching from the dazzling icefalls of the Tasman to the jagged spires of the Main Divide. Unlike more frequently climbed peaks, Malte Brun carries a sense of remoteness and seriousness, requiring solid alpine experience and a steady head for heights. The descent, using the same route up but reverse often by abseil and careful downclimbing, reinforces the commitment of the climb and the respect this mountain demands.

For alpinists seeking a pure, exposed ridge route that captures the essence of New Zealand mountaineering, Malte Brun Climb via the Bonney Ridge of is an absolute masterpiece – bold, aesthetic, and deeply rewarding.

The Malte Brun climb, towering above the Tasman Glacier, offers one of New Zealand’s finest alpine ridge climbs. The Bonney Ridge is a bold and aesthetic route, weaving along sharp arêtes, steep rock sections, and airy traverses, with constant exposure and breathtaking views across Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. Every step brings challenge and exhilaration, from sustained rock climbing to knife-edge ridges leading toward the summit at 3,199 metres. Remote, serious, and spectacular, this climb demands skill, composure, and commitment. For alpinists seeking a classic adventure, Malte Brun Climb via the Bonney Ridge is a true masterpiece of the Southern Alps.